Delving into speakeasys and history in Estonia

Estonia, in  Europe has been on my bucket list for more than 25 years – ever since an academic at Monash University told me about a research project he’d just completed on the country. 

I still haven’t made it there.

But luckily our friend Matthew Mayall has been and was happy to share his experiences with us all in our latest You’ve Been Where post. 

Castles, cocktails, an intriguing history… what more could you want in an adventure?

It’s fair to say Estonia has just climbed back up my bucket list.

We love hearing about the travel experiences of our friends, family and readers of AllAbroad. We pick up so many tips and find new places to travel. We thought you might like to hear about their adventures too. So in this section we turn the website over to you, our travel family.

Read on for travel tips from the people that help inspire our adventures.

Who are you and what do you do for a living?

My name is Matthew Mayall and I am a roving travel agent based in Byron Bay. Occasionally you will find me in the office there when I am not travelling the world or this amazing country of Australia. 

Where is home?

I am based in the hills behind Byron Bay or in my campervan, Eleanor.  

Where have you been? When did you go?

In September 2024 I travelled to Estonia.

Who did you travel with?

On my lonesome.

What were the highlights of your trip?

My example of the old and the new. Being served a great beer in a large handmade ceramic vessel by a wench (not my word) in a low-ceilinged dingy candlelit tavern one evening juxtaposed with the clandestine tap at a door, to then be led down a small staircase into a modern ‘speakeasy’ with a mixologist ready to share all the best picks of Tallinn while expertly concocting my ‘Weekend in Pompeii’ cocktail. Of course her recommendations were perfect. The Spa and Sauna house being a standout in most part due to my long hike (and quick dip) along the coast of the Baltic Sea.

What did you least like about your trip?

This is a tough one. To be critical would come from expectations and it is always hard to separate yourself from how your own experiences and knowledge form those expectations which in many cases can be naive or clouded by someone else’s opinion or judgement. In saying that I went to Estonia with the hope of a little soviet or USSR influence and to experience that. 

Estonians, for the most part, have turned their back on that history and see themselves as more Scandinavian than Russian. Only a relatively mild disappointment but also it meant that there was a sense of optimism in both the young and older folk that I met.

Do you have any funny stories from your travels?

Probably me dining alone in what could only be described as a window display.

What were the locals like?

So friendly and happy to have me there, from the old man on the bus who didn’t have a word of English to match my similar Estonian vocabulary to all those I met along the way who were always so happy to help.

What was the food like?

It was hard, especially in the old city, to find more traditional Estonian meals as it seems that influences from other cuisines do intrude a lot. Breakfast at the hotel was as traditional as I would expect. Very simple with pickled fish dominating and always eggs.

Did you learn anything about yourself or the world on this trip? 

It always gives me hope when I see people who have built their country into an amazing place, overcoming such adversities and hostilities. The war history of Tallinn was such an eye opener.

Would you recommend others travel here? Why/Why not

Certainly!

It was such a different experience to other parts of Europe and can be done at lower cost. 

Do you have any tips for people thinking of travelling here?

Stay in the old city for the best experience.

Maybe invest in a Tallinn city pass.

Plan which season best suits your travel style. Snowy Christmas markets, Summer on the beach in Parnu or long hikes, but keep in mind that Estonia’s highest point is only 300 metres above sea level with the average being 50 metres so choose your trail wisely.

Plan to get out of Tallinn and head to the national parks and the coast. Even inland to a castle or two. You can even stay a night in one. 

Been somewhere interesting lately? Drop us a line, we’d love to share your tips.

Read more reader adventures in our  You’ve Been Where? series here.

Read more adventures in  Europe here.

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