Finding paradise on Tokoriki Island

We have arrived in Paradise

Sitting in the bar at Amanuca on Tokoriki Island, a group of Fijian musicians playing in the background, sipping a fruity mocktail and looking out over the ocean – surely it doesn’t get any better than this.

But while we’re relaxed and soaking in that tropical island ambience NOW, it took a mammoth effort to get to this point. It’s fair to say the journey was somewhat more adventurous than we were expecting, and not generally part of the experience getting to this Island, apparently.

Tokoriki is a small island in the Mamanuca Islands, north-west of Nadi in Fiji. The island contains just two resorts and measures just 1.9km long.

It is the kind of palm-fringed, white sand island you’d expect to find in this part of the world, the kind you see in glossy brochures and wonder if they really look like that, still. The kind of place you need when work is frantic and you just need to escape from life for a minute or two.

Our plane departed Melbourne just after midnight, arriving at Nadi about 6.30am. We had arranged transfers to take us to Denauru where we were to catch a boat at 9.30am to take us straight to Tokoriki Island.

Denauru was already busy by 8am. Local musicians strummed ukeleles and crooned traditional lullabies as tourists looked anxiously for their boats. 

We found our boat, boarded and sat in the air-conditioned comfort of the Captain’s Lounge, waiting to set sail. Of course, it wasn’t long before we got talking to another couple, who had no sooner settled themselves on the boat and struck up a conversation with us than our hostess, Ecka, told them plans had changed, and they would need to change boats. They should go and see the manager, she said.

They left, bags in tow. Two minutes later they were back on the boat, plans had changed again.

This is, after all, island life, where you soon learn that plans are simply a guide, anything can change at any time and you’re best just to go with it. 

We set off for Tokoriki, sailing through a series of small islands, each more stunning than the one before it – white sandy beaches fringed by palm trees and crystal clear, blue waters lapping at the shores.

When we reached Mana Island, we were told we would have to board another boat – but don’t go on to the pier yet, Ecka told us, I’ll come and tell you when you have to change boats and you will have to go down below on the deck.

We wait, the boat moves away from the pier, smaller boats come and moor themselves beside our large boat, then move away.

We return to the pier and are told to get off on the pier, as we are about to disembark we are told go down to the bottom deck to disembark onto another boat.

Finally, we board a speed boat. There are about 10 of us in the speedboat, all bound for Amunuca* Resort. Our luggage is stowed precariously on the back of the boat – I say precariously, as nothing is holding the luggage on and I’m fairly certain that as soon as the speedboat takes off, our luggage will be lost to the bottom of the ocean. Right about now I’m wishing I didn’t buy that new suitcase and instead brought one of our old cases with us.

I look down and water sloshing at my feet. I had headed to the airport straight from work so I’m still dressed in the black pants and pink shirt I had worn to the office the day before – at least I’d had the good sense to change into an old pair of walking shoes.

The bottom of my pants and my shoes are getting saturated, but then as the boat takes off, the water subsides. Somehow the cases stay balanced on the boat. As we get within about 500 metres of the shoreline that houses Amunuca resort the boat slows down and another boat comes out to meet us.

Once again, we are told to change boats, this one will take us out to the resort. Our luggage is transferred to a third boat as we all load into the boat. As we make our way toward Amunuca we look down into the ocean to see sparkling clear waters. We can make out the coral beneath us and watch fish swim past.

Three Fijian musicians stand on the beach, welcoming us in song. And with each step the stresses of office life eek out of my pores, Tokoriki Island, Fiji, starts to weave her spell.

We check in and then spend the rest of the day in our cabin. Paradise may be calling, but so is the bed – we haven’t slept for over 24 hours after all.

We emerge from our room just in time for a quick swim before dinner. The pool is stunning, an endless swimming pool with deep blue water that matches the colour of the ocean. Seated in the pool, we look out over the coral reefs that border this part of the island and the neighbouring three islands.

I had read mixed reviews of Amunuca, most complained about the price and quality of the food. The location and the living areas of the resort are spectacular, the staff are very friendly, and I have to say I was pleasantly surprised by the food.

The following day, after a good sleep in and breakfast, we spend the day lounging by the pool, reading a book and relaxing. Adrian, who is naturally very chilled but finds it difficult to sit still and read, is lured by the ocean and soon wanders down to the water with goggles and a snorkel. But the pull of the day bed, my book and the pull of relaxing and simply taking in the stunning views from this location are too strong for me. I continue relaxing by the pool.

My mother, who is sometimes very wise, even though I rarely give her any credit for being so, told me just before coming away that everyone needs to relax at some stage and that some holidays should be just about relaxing.

She tells me this as our previous two overseas trips have been to Africa and India, both of which are amazing places, but neither of which are very relaxing.

So, this holiday we are determined to relax and in Fiji there is little more to do.  Our big decision that first morning was should we snorkel before lunch or after – as it turned out I didn’t go at all that first day as it seemed like too great an effort to get up off the sunlounge.

Day three in paradise and again after a good sleep in – and 12 hours of sleep – we decide to get active and go for a short walk. We head down to the beach and walk over the rocks along the island. We find a path and an old abandoned rock building, which looks like it may have been used for storage at some stage. The path is made of concrete so we figure it must lead somewhere, we are wrong, it doesn’t. It goes up part way into the centre of the island where it does a loop.

By the time we get back down to the beach the tide has come in, making crossing the rocks back to our resort a little more perilous.

All that walking exhausted us, so it was back to bed, followed by a short swim and more lounging by the poolside before heading over to Tokoriki Resort hotel.

The reviews I read on Tokoriki resort were amazing – it was described as paradise and heaven on earth, so I have mixed views about going to check it out. Of course I want to have a sticky beak, but at the same time, how will I ever go back to our resort after seeing paradise?

The resort is indeed beautiful. It is an adults-only resort. The grounds are stunning, all manicured perfection and the central area has an outdoor library area, big chairs for relaxing in. There is a large infinity pool. The place is very quiet, unlike Amanuca, which always has people milling around, children swimming in the pool and of course people hanging out at the bar.

While I think Tokoriki is by far the more stunning of the resorts – and of course with the price tag it should be – the views from Amunuca are far better. The resorts are just a couple of hundred metres apart, but Amunuca looks out over three islands which break up the endless ocean views. Tokoriki on the other hand only looks out on one island. 

From the main living areas of Tokoriki Resort you seem to look out over the swimming pool, at Amunuca however, the pool is off to the left of the communal areas, so from the bar and the restaurant, there are uninterrupted views over the ocean and the islands – oh and Amunuca also has a swim up bar.

Day four and I am determined to do some kind of activity, so after breakfast we take out some snorkels and head into the ocean. It is the first time since I have been here that I have been into the ocean and the water is amazing.

So clear, so blue, so warm. After about 30 minutes snorkelling I lay in the shallows of the waters feeling the sun on my face and the waters wash over my skin. It is a perfect day and despite the shallow water, a small fish swims past my arm.

That night there is a bonfire on the beach, so we sit around the fire singing songs from the various nations represented – Australia, England, China, Fiji and New Zealand. Our New Zealand friends take us through the Haka. Then we move back into the bar for a good dose of karaoke.

The following morning, nursing delicate heads, we take it easy. Another sleep in followed by a short swim in the pool. But then one of the girls we have met talks us into going on the guided nature walk – admittedly we don’t take much convincing, we can’t lounge around the whole time we are here!

I thought the walk would take us out of the resort and into the rainforest behind us, however we remain within the grounds of Amunuca while our guide Cali – who is also the chief volleyball referee – explains different plant leaves and fruits to us.

An afternoon relaxing by the pool follows – I could definitely get used to this life.

The following morning we decide we really should get off the island and take up at least one of the activities while we are here, so we sign up to go out to Monaru Island – made famous by Tom Hanks in the movie Castaway.

The trip includes a bit of snorkelling, followed by time spent on the island.

We head out in two separate boats as there are 18 of us on this particular trip, the boat we are on is the later boat and we travel to the rear of the island for 40 minutes of snorkelling. The boat anchors about 100 metres offshore and we snorkel to the beach.

The snorkelling is amazing, we are right on the edge of an underwater “cliff” where the coral drops away dramatically. One of the swimmers comes and asks me if I just saw the shark beneath us, I didn’t and it’s a good thing too, it was enough for me to be swimming at this depth and this far from shore without seeing a shark!

Foolishly I had opted not to get a lifejacket and about halfway through our snorkel I begin wishing I had some kind of life-saving device so I could just lay back and relax for a bit, but then our snorkel guide calls us over to see a huge school of fish feeding off the coral.

I see people begin to get out of the water into the boat, so follow suit. Once everyone is out of the water, the boat takes us around to the other side of the island where we meet up with those that left in the boat before us. The sand is soft and white and of course fringed with palm trees.

We walk to the other side of the island where we stop to see one of the guys from our trip breaking open coconuts for us to try.

We are on the island for about 40 minutes, left to explore the beautiful vistas on our own. 

When we get back to Tokoriki, we settle into the swimming pool. Adrian plays the daily game of Volleyball, while I sit at the bar with our newfound friends.

Some eight hours later we are still at the bar, trying the various cocktails, this is after all what holidays are all about.

We take part in a quick limbo session and dance well into the night.

The following morning, nursing delicate heads, again, we sleep for half the day. Fortunately the rain has set in, so it is a good opportunity to relax. We make our way to the bar area and spend the afternoon relaxing with our new friends.

Wednesday dawns bright and early, we miss the early part and make it in time for breakfast and to see the last of our friends depart the island. The resort begins to feel very quiet, but soon a new crowd will come in and no doubt continue the partying.

We have two more days on the island to relax so we book a massage and head out for a snorkel.

Again, the water is amazing, we swim out to the pontoon which sits about 200 metres from the shore. Again, we swim over coral and an underground “cliff” complete with underwater tunnels.

I make it to the pontoon – a major feat. And spend some time lazing on the pontoon before we head back to shore.

The fish are amazing and the water is so clear I lounge in the shallows but spend too long in the water and my knees slowly turn a bright shade of pink as the day passes.

The massage completes our relaxation, though Adrian feels it does not go deep enough and doesn’t get rid of any of the knots in his back – as a myotherapist, he is quite fussy with his massages.

Dinner that night is a traditional Fijian lovo. There is far too much food, but we enjoy trying the different meats cooked in the underground oven.

Dinner is followed by entertainment from the local village. It is a fantastic end to the day. The entertainment is terrific.

Our last day on the island comes all too soon. I am feeling thoroughly relaxed and am trying to think of ways I can retain this feeling – how to give up work but maintain an income that allows me to travel. No doubt the eternal dream!

Fast Facts

We stayed at Amunuca Resort,  which has since been taken over by Sheraton Hotels.

We were here for two weeks.

Was it long enough? Yes, it was pure bliss, but there is not a lot to do on the island.

Highlights: Those beaches (!), snorkelling around the island made famous by the movie Castaway, seeing a shark – yes really!

Read while you’re there: Anything light – a romcom, a comedy. This is the place to relax fully, and that means relaxing your brain too!

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