We’re relaxing in our rooftop swimming pool, leaning over the edge. Leaning just far enough so we can see the streets of Ho Chi Minh beneath us. It’s a moment of calm between the excitement of Pub Street in Cambodia and the chaos of Vietnam.

The view from the pool offers just a hint of the madness that is to come. The crazy, frenetic streets, the modern buildings that sit next to historic sites and the general life that makes up this vibrant city.

Our tour guide Laki picks us up early to take us to the war tunnels. He tells us all we’re “amaaazzing” and so “handsome” as he reveals the secrets of his city.

At the war tunnels we crawl underground, slouch through tunnels and learn how the Vietnamese set up kitchens and hospitals underground to stay out of sight of the Americans during the Vietnam/American War. 

The tunnels and jungle give way to photos and war planes as we silently make our way through the confronting war museum, learning a little more about the war and the destruction it left behind.

At night we’re taken on a tour of a completely different kind.

Motorbikes arrive at our hotel to take us back through the city streets on a Street Food Tour. At every stop we enjoy food better than the meal before. And we get into the heart of Ho Chi Minh, and its food culture, all from the back of scooters with Saigon Street Eats.

We giggle and eat, chat with our guides and eat. And through every street and every roadside vendor our smiles grow just a little wider.

The next day we’re back with Laki, this time for a trip to the Mekong Delta where we’re on boats, again. As we sail through the calm waters Laki explains how locals use the lake in everyday life, pointing out market stalls along the way.

We stop for a coffee and are serenaded by a local trio, call into a market where we see how local lollies are made and taste local rum and stop for lunch with Laki’s family.

We have one final adventure in Ho Chi Minh – a short walk to the Opera House, the Post Office designed by Gustav Eiffel, the Cathedral and along the beautiful boulevard and Walking Street before we say goodbye to half our group and continue to Hanoi.

In Hanoi we take a walk around Hoam Kiem Lake where the music from a festival draws us in. We keep walking and find a local place for Pho but are ushered past the full tables in the restaurant area and into the family’s living room. The restaurant serves pho, pho and pho so we have the pho.

After a night in Hanoi we’re on the move again, to HaLong Bay. We board our boat, have lunch, and then head out to Amazing Cave where we walk through the brightly lit but crowded caverns and wonder at the natural rock formations.

It’s too wet to sit on a beach so we miss the island excursion and chill out back on our boat instead.

In the morning we are up early for tai chi on the top deck, overlooking the bay, and enjoy a moment of choreographed calm made up of subtle arm movements and stunning views. We take an even smaller boat to see the monkeys and head further into HaLong Bay.

It’s crowded, it’s overcast, it’s touristy, but it’s also beautiful and very relaxing.

It’s the perfect end to our stay.

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