The magic of Kings Canyon

I’m sitting outside our van looking over the ensuite toilet block and the canyon range that makes up Kings Canyon in Watarrka National Park. It’s almost peaceful except that they’re working on the toilet block so I can hear the ongoing sounds of machinery.

We’re heading into Kings Canyon after lunch to do a creek walk but for now I relax into my tub chair, enjoying the moment of tranquillity. I always feel a little guilty if I don’t get out to see the local attractions the minute I arrive somewhere new. If I’m not sightseeing then I might as well be at home. But this is home now, this little black van, and I know I need to allow myself this down time. Know too that sitting and soaking up the atmosphere is all part of the travel experience.

Melbourne has gone back into lockdown. More covid cases – up to over 30 now, I think. I’m glad we got out when we did but also feel guilty for being out enjoying life when everyone else is in lockdown. I feel guilty for posting about our trips but keep posting to let everyone know where we are and that we’re safe and doing well. 

Though whether we’re doing well is sometimes debateable. This morning I lay awake at 3am listening to the wind howling around outside and the tent and awning walls flapping and I wondered again whether I’m going to be able to last a year, why we chose the hardest way to do this and whether I should just give up and go home. 

But then I sit here looking out over the canyon and I know we’ll keep going, know too that as hard as this is the rewards are worth it.

I know that we’re lucky to be out here travelling around Australia and if we weren’t doing this, I’d be sitting at home wishing we were. That’s what I need to focus on.

I don’t have the words to describe how beautiful Kings Canyon is. The scrub, the sheer cliff faces that front the caravan park we’re staying in are breathtaking. Throughout our time at Kings Canyon we sit and watch as the light dances across the grass and the rocks in front of us, changing their colours with each passing hour.

On our first afternoon we tackle the Kings Canyon Creek walk, a short, flat walk inside the canyon. It’s a great introduction to the geography. We look up at sheer rock walls and watch budgerigars play. It must be mating season, there are a lot of kissing budgies in this canyon.

At the end of the walk is a watering hole, a sacred site for the local Indigenous people so they ask you not to swim here. We learn a little more about the Dreamtime, a little more about the country we have lived in all our lives.

We gaze into the water, amble along the timber viewing platform along the walk, soak up the spirit of this site.

It’s a two-hour walk that takes us into another world.

The following day we tackle the Rim walk – a six kilometre-round trip walk. Signs at the beginning of the walk warn you to start early and to avoid the walk if it’s likely to get too hot – above 30degC. It’s searing walking on a rock ledge in the Australian sun.

But on this day we have perfect weather, cool enough that we need jackets.

We leave early and start the climb up the steep steps at the beginning. The steps are carved into the rock and lead you to the top of the canyon walls. Wildflowers and spinifex grass soften the harsh rock face all the way up. We stop regularly, to take in the view up and down, all around us and so Ade can take far too many photos.

And then we start the walk around the rim. We pass through crevices and edge along the canyon rim. We see the imprint of crustaceans and sea life, revealing the underwater history of the site.

Along the way story boards tell us about the terrain, the local customs and the history. A path etched into the canyon rock leads the way. It’s easy to follow and yet somehow blends perfectly into the surrounding landscape. At one point we walk down into a magical garden of green and see the canyon walls reflected in a watering hole at the bottom. And then we’re back up and on the other side of the canyon, viewing the walk we did the day before from above.