We’re standing in front of one of the world’s most iconic buildings. The Taj Mahal. It is stunning, even more beautiful than it appears in all those images.

But we’re not looking at the building, instead we’re locked in discussion with two young English girls and a French couple.

The conversation is nothing more than banter, three sets of travellers discussing where they have been, where they are going next, and offering travel tips to each other. 

Suddenly an arm reaches into the middle of our group a phone appears in front of my face and we hear the unmistakable click of a camera.

Or maybe we imagine the click. The arm retreats, the man looks at the image on his phone as he walks away. But he’s not happy. He sidles back up to the group, the arm appears once more in the middle of our circle. Another click. This time he seems satisfied. He wanders off.

We continue our conversation as if nothing happened. Because this is India, where anything and everything may happen and you’re best just to go with it.

No trip to India is complete without a trip to Agra – and the Taj Mahal, but there is much more to see beyond this majestic monument.

In any other city the Itimad-Ud-Daulah – or Baby Taj as it is known – would be a well-known icon in its own right. Built of marble it is an impressive mausoleum, surrounded by beautiful gardens. 

But in Agra, this is a poor second cousin to the Taj.

Baby Taj was built between 1622 and 1628 for Ghiyas Beg, a Persian diplomat who served as the chief minister to Emperor Jehangir.

Across the river from Baby Taj is Agra Fort. Building of the sandstone and marble structure began in 1565 by Emperor Akbar and was not completed until after 1637.

The Fort is a stunning example of the extravagance of the ruling Maharaja. From the moment you step into the entrance it is clear this Fort is going to be something special. And it doesn’t disappoint. The intricate lacework in the palace wall, the stunning garden beds and the beautiful marble mosques make this one of the most impressive forts in India.

On a clear day you can see the Taj Mahal just up the Yamuna river. Of all the sights in Agra though, none can compare to the Taj Mahal. It is one of the most recognisable sights in the world, but no matter how many pictures you have seen of this monument, nothing quite prepares you for the real thing.

The Taj Mahal is stunning. Built between 1632 and 1653 it was built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan as a tomb for his favourite wife, Arjumand Banu Begum, who died giving birth to their 14th child.

In the words of Bengali poet Rabindranath Tagore the Taj is said to be a “tear (that) would hang on the cheek of time”. 

So romantic.

The Taj Mahal is clearly a major drawcard for tourists from all around the world, but the day we are there local tourists far outnumber the western tourists and the vibrant colours of saris on the steps of the monument only adds to the Taj’s visual splendour.

 

In complete contrast to the beauty of the monuments, the town in Agra is not particularly attractive. Many people, apparently, get out as quickly as possible rather than spend any time in the “dirty” streets of the town.

However we find meandering through the labyrinth of the local streets quite intriguing and, for the seasoned traveller, we’d recommend spending at least a few hours wandering through the streets.

Also, be sure to check out the Taj from all sides, including the back – but don’t be surprised if there is no water in the Yamuna river behind. While you may be fortunate to get the iconic image of the Taj reflected in the water, depending on the season the riverbed may be dry. It certainly was for us.

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Baby Taj
Taj Mahal with water
View from our hotel Agra
Agra Fort
Palace at Agra